Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
