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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.